This week I learned that just because it feels like spring when you leave the house in the morning does not mean that it will feel like spring when you come home in the evening. Living in San Diego I completely got out of the habit of listening to the weather unless I was planning on spending the day climbing or cycling. We have a thermometer that we can see from the bedroom, but it does not tell you that the temperature that you see is the warmest that it is going to be all day. There is a possibility that it will snow on Jason's birthday this Wednesday. I think that he has his fingers crossed that it will.
It has been feeling more like spring lately. Yesterday we went out to the local nursery to pick up seeds, dirt, and some other garden stuff. I planted the seeds and repotted some plants. Later in the afternoon Jason and I went for a long walk around the area-- up to the Tufts campus and over to Powderhouse Square to see the former mill that was used as a powderhouse during the Revolutionary War. Today we finally put up some art now that here are enough window coverings. The cabinets are getting shuffled around a bit, but things are settling into permanent homes.
I have been enjoying one of the food columns in the NYT a great deal. It is called "The Minimalist." As one would expect, the recipes are not overly involved and of the three that we have tried, they are all outstandingly good. I sent out the bread recipe to many friends. I have started making bread again about once a week. It is not just because I can no longer go to Bread & Cie, but because I can now make a bread that is as satisfying as I would buy there. The recipe now exists in a number of variations-- most of which have a bit of olive oil to make the loaf last for a few more days. (I will send you the recipe with commentary if you want, just email me)
We also tried the instructions for broiling a steak. (Pasted below if the link does not work)
http://select.nytimes.com/search/restricted/article?res=F30714F63F5B0C728FDDA80894DF404482The short version of the article was that a broiler pan is bad because there is no way to heat the air up under the rack, and that the meat is lean enough, there is no reason for the fat to drip away. Heat a cast iron pan as hot as possible under the broiler. After about 20 minutes, put the steak in the pan and put it back under the broiler. Do not turn it. It will cook from both sides at the same time.
The most recent one was on non-breakfast pancakes.
http://www.nytimes.com/2007/03/28/dining/28mini.htmlWe made the Korean Style vegetable-shrimp pancakes. The next time the shrimp will need to be chopped a bit more, and the batter will need to be thinned, and a bit of salt added, but they were quite tasty and easy. Who knows what might be in the column next week.
Recipe: Korean-Style Crisp Vegetable Pancake (Pa jun)
Time: 30 minutes
2 cups all-purpose flour2 eggs, lightly beaten1 tablespoon corn, grape seed, canola or other neutral oil, more as needed 5 scallions, green parts only, cut into 3-inch lengths and sliced lengthwise20 chives or 5 chopped scallions1 medium carrot, peeled and grated1 small yellow or green squash, trimmed and grated1/2 pound chopped shrimp, optional1 tablespoon rice or white vinegar3 tablespoons soy sauce1 teaspoon sugar.
1. In a medium bowl, mix flour, eggs and oil with 1 1/2 cups water until a smooth batter is formed. Stir scallion greens, chives, carrots, squash and shrimp, if using, into batter.
2. Place an 8- inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat, then coat bottom with oil. Ladle in about a quarter of the batter and spread it out evenly into a circle; if first pancake is too thick to spread easily, add a little water to batter for remaining pancakes. Turn heat to medium and cook until bottom is browned, about 3 minutes, then flip and cook for another 2 minutes. Repeat with remaining batter.
3. As pancakes finish, remove them, and, if necessary, drain on paper towels. In a small bowl, mix together the vinegar, soy sauce and sugar. Cut pancakes into small triangles and serve with dipping sauce.
Yield: 6 to 8 servings.
January 31, 2007
THE MINIMALIST; The Boring Old Broiler Turns Out to Be a Superstar
By MARK BITTMAN
IT'S right there, invisible, inside your oven, the most underappreciated, taken-for-granted appliance in your kitchen: the broiler.
Bread machines, microwaves, sandwich-makers, electric grills and other ''must-haves'' come and go, but the broiler is always there. Hundreds of books are written about grilling, roasting, frying, even microwaving and steaming, for crying out loud, yet the broiler is largely ignored.
The broiler is free -- that is to say, you already own one -- and easy to use. It is essentially an upside-down grill, but it produces results you cannot duplicate any other way. It even has a couple of distinct advantages over the outdoor grill and the countertop version.
As a boy, I watched my mother broil almost every night in our oversize ''rotisserie,'' which took up half the counter space in our modest Manhattan apartment. (I fear that she, too, was a victim of gadget marketing; our oven broiler remained unused.)
As a young food writer, freed from the constraints of the city, I wrote about the joys of wintertime grilling. As a middle-aged food writer, I'm writing about the benefits of wintertime broiling: you don't have to brave the weather, and you get a warmer kitchen. All you need to do is turn a dial (or, these days, frustratingly, push a couple of buttons, one of them several times). And -- a real bonus that you do not get with grilling, either indoor or outdoor -- the juices of whatever you're broiling stay in the pan.
You've probably seen cookbook directions that start ''on the grill or under the broiler,'' as if they were the same thing. Broiling, though, requires some different techniques, and it's taken me some time and a little rewriting of the rules to optimize my skills.
First of all, forget about broiler pans and aluminum foil. As everyone knows, the pan is nearly impossible to clean (which explains the aluminum foil), and it's designed to allow the valuable juices -- mostly fat, but, hey, fat is flavor -- drip through the grate and into the bottom. What good are the juices doing you there? The problem with most of today's meat is not too much fat but too little, so there's no need to get rid of it.
Another problem with broiler pans is that they trap air under the food, keeping the underside cool, which makes turning necessary, increases cooking time, and reduces browning. By using a skillet instead, you eliminate all these problems.
Most modern broilers are now unfortunately equipped with thermostats, so they cycle on and off, never really getting hot enough. Start by heating your oven to its maximum temperature, typically 550 degrees; then turn on the broiler.
While the oven is preheating, leave a skillet or a grill pan (a ridged skillet) inside. The best pans for this are cast-iron, enameled cast-iron, or heavy-duty steel -- not stainless steel, but what chefs call ''black steel.'' Almost needless to say, this pan must be all metal and not flimsy. Keep potholders handy.
In most cases, that skillet will stay as close to the heating element as possible, about two or three inches away. That's roughly the distance you want if you have an old-fashioned under-oven broiler, even though it will allow you to put the food closer, almost in contact with the flames. Adjustments may also be needed with a really powerful broiler, of the kind more often found in restaurants, where two or three inches may be way too close. After a little experimenting, you'll find the ideal distance for your broiler. (My broiler, on which all of my calculations are based, is 17,000 B.T.U., and is typical. Some broilers, including most electric ones, are closer to 10,000 B.T.U.)
Finally, do what it takes to keep the broiling element on. Most broiling happens so fast -- often in less than 10 minutes -- that if the element cycles off, it will throw off your timing. It's not disastrous, but it's a nuisance. I have taken to shoving the skillet as far back on the oven rack as I can, and leaving the oven door open a crack.
Now you're ready. What can you cook? Almost anything, although some foods are more cooperative than others: meat of all kinds, especially steaks and chops; fish, from steaks like tuna or swordfish to fillets both thick and thin; shellfish; chicken (usually best without skin, which, as every experienced griller knows, readily catches fire); and even vegetables, especially tomatoes, peppers and chilies.
The technique varies little from one ingredient to the next. For one-inch steaks (rib-eye or sirloin are best), have the meat at room temperature and dry it well. Broil in a preheated skillet about eight minutes for medium rare; turning is unnecessary. You may want to serve it bottom-side up, especially if you use a grill pan.
For one-inch fish steaks or thick fillets, brush the fish lightly with olive oil first. Cooking time for medium to medium well will be less than 10 minutes.
Boneless, skinless chicken breasts will take five or six minutes, less if they're thin. Thighs need about 10 minutes; you may have to move the oven rack down a notch if they brown too quickly.
Turn scallops or shrimp in extra virgin olive oil and salt before broiling for about three minutes. Simply toss clams or mussels into the preheated skillet. They're done when they open, within 10 minutes. If shells start to crack, remove the open mollusks and return the pan to the oven.
Thin fish fillets, like flounder, are a little different. Preheat the pan for about five minutes, remove it, and pour in about three tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil, then put the fillets in the oil. Time under the broiler will be 90 seconds to 2 minutes, rarely more.
There. If I'd told you I had an appliance that could brown like a grill, was as convenient as your oven, and cooked most food in less than 10 minutes, you'd buy it. But you don't need to. Hard-Shell Clams with Parsley Pesto Time: 20 minutes 2 cups parsley leaves (thin stems are O.K.), washed Salt 1/2 clove garlic, more to taste 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil, or more 1 tablespoon sherry vinegar or lemon juice 2 dozen hardshell clams (littlenecks or cherrystones), washed and scrubbed. 1. Turn on broiler and put a large cast-iron skillet under it while you make parsley pesto. Combine parsley with a pinch of salt, garlic and about half the oil in a food processor or blender. Process, stopping to scrape down sides of container if necessary, and adding rest of oil gradually. Add vinegar or lemon juice, then a little water to thin mixture slightly. Taste and adjust seasoning. 2. Carefully remove skillet from broiler, add clams to it and return to broiler. They should all open more or less at once, within 10 minutes; remove them as soon as they do to preserve their juices, and put on a plate. Dab each with parsley sauce and serve hot. (Any clams that do not open are safe to eat; open them with a dull knife, or continue to broil a few minutes longer.) Yield: 4 or more servings. Tortilla Soup Time: 1 hour 2 fresh chilies, preferably pasilla 1 1/2 pounds tomatoes, each cut in half 2 tablespoons neutral oil, like grapeseed or corn 3 cloves garlic, sliced 1 large onion, sliced Salt and freshly ground pepper Pinch dried oregano 4 cups any stock or water 1 to 2 cups tortilla chips 1 cup fresh cilantro leaves, chopped, optional 1 ripe avocado, peeled and sliced, optional 1 or 2 radishes, thinly sliced, optional 1 lime, juiced, plus one cut into wedges. 1. Heat broiler. Arrange chilies and tomatoes in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet and place a few inches away from broiling element. Cook until charred on one side, then flip them with tongs and char other side, about 5 to 8 minutes total. When cool, skin, stem and seed chilies, then chop them. 2. Put oil in a large saucepan over medium heat; a minute later add garlic and onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden and softened, about 10 minutes. Add tomatoes and chilies, crushing tomatoes with back of a wooden spoon. Season with salt, pepper and a pinch of oregano; add stock or water and adjust heat so mixture simmers gently. Cook for 20 to 30 minutes, crushing tomatoes from time to time. (You can prepare soup up to this point in advance. Let it sit for a few hours, or cover and refrigerate for up to a day before reheating and finishing.) 3. Stir in tortilla chips and simmer another three to five minutes. Season to taste with lime juice, salt and pepper, then garnish if desired and serve with lime wedges. Yield: 4 to 6 servings. Broiled Steak with Pineapple and Onion Salsa Time: 30 minutes 1 pineapple, peeled, cored and cut into thick rings (canned rings are O.K.; drain excess syrup) 1 large onion, cut into thick slices 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon minced fresh chile, like jalapeño or Thai, or to taste, or dried red chile flakes or cayenne to taste 2 tablespoons chopped basil or mint leaves 2 tablespoons lime juice Salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 12- to 16-ounce sirloin strip or ribeye steaks, preferably at room temperature. 1. Start broiler; set rack about 4 inches from heat source. Brush pineapple and onion slices with olive oil and put on a baking sheet. Broil, turning once or twice, until soft and slightly charred, about 8 minutes total. Remove slices as they finish cooking and chop into bite-size chunks, saving as much juice as possible. When finished, set a cast-iron pan under broiler and let sit for about 10 minutes. 2. In a bowl, combine pineapple and onions with chile, basil and lime juice. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and stir to combine. Let sit for about 5 minutes, then taste and add more chile, lime or salt to taste. 3. Season steaks with salt and pepper. When pan is very hot, carefully remove from oven and add steaks; return to oven immediately. Broil steaks 6 to 10 minutes for rare to medium rare. (Timing will depend on thickness of meat and broiler heat; check by feel or by making a small slit in one steak and peeking in.) Serve steaks hot, with salsa. Yield: 4 servings.
